Restaurant Critic Roundup: Critic Shakeup
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Every Wednesday, The Daily Meal rounds up a slew of restaurant reviews across America
As always, the ratings range from stars to bells to beans, but every review offers specialized insight into the food, atmosphere, and service of eateries in each city’s dining scene and the critics eating at them.
The restaurant critic world was shaken up this week with the news that Brett Anderson was laid off from The Times-Picayune in New Orleans.
In brighter restaurant critic news, The New York Daily News is back at it with new restaurant reviews. Stan Sagner reviewed the Blue Ribbon Sushi Izakaya, and gave it a pleasing 3 stars.
Two more New York critics reviewed Hakkasan this week, giving it almost the same poor scores as last week.
The Miami Herald gave good ratings to Jean Paul’s House, which, in keeping with its name, gave off a homey vibe. Michael Bauer was not so impressed with the new Lucy in San Francisco.
From the East Coast to the West Coast, from North to South, the weekly restaurant critic roundup is here for all of your dining out needs.
| Critic | Publication | Restaurant | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Matthew Odam | The Austin-American Statesman | Hickory Street Bar and Grill | 6 out of 10 |
| Devra First | The Boston Globe | Nix's Mate | 2 stars |
| Jonathan Gold | The Los Angeles Times | Bizarra Capital | |
| Victoria Pesce Elliott | The Miami Herald | Jean Paul’s House | 2.5 stars |
| Ryan Sutton | Bloomberg | NoMad | 2 stars |
| Stan Sagner | The New York Daily News | Blue Ribbon Sushi Izakaya | 3 stars |
| Steve Cuozzo | The New York Post | Hakkasan | .5 stars |
| Pete Wells | The New York Times | Hakkasan | 1 star |
| Craig LeBan | Philadelphia Inquirer | American Sardine Bar | 2 bells |
| Michael Bauer | San Francisco Chronicle | Lucy | 1.5 stars |
| Providence Cicero | The Seattle Times | Restaurant Zoe | 3 stars |
| Tom Sietsema | The Washington Post | Curry Mantra | 2 stars |
Check out last week’s Restaurant Critic Roundup!
Some of our favorite new L.A. restaurants for outdoor dining
Just over 50% of Californians are at least partially vaccinated, and COVID-19 cases across the state have decreased nearly 13% in the last week alone. Los Angeles entered the yellow reopening tier early this month. Dining out has returned in force. Tasting-menu restaurants are suddenly booked out two months in advance. The noontime lines again trail from nearly every truck serving tacos and mariscos along Olympic Boulevard in Boyle Heights.
Within this framework, columnist Jenn Harris and I compiled a springtime guide highlighting outdoor dining. Restaurants are welcoming customers back inside dining rooms with increased capacities for some people takeout remains the most comfortable, safest option. Emphasizing restaurants with outside spaces felt like the soundest focus for us.
Enjoying this newsletter? Consider subscribing to the Los Angeles Times
Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most. Become a subscriber.
It also made sense to approach our spring roundup as an analogue to the annual L.A. Times 101. Dozens of the defining restaurants listed in that project offer outdoor dining, so for this guide, we focused on new places across the L.A. Metro area as well as the occasional under-the-radar favorite — 3-year-old Kalinka in Glendale, for example, which some Russian friends suggested. Four of us ordered a spread of zakuski (pickled vegetables, pelmeni, dilled veal tongue and the Soviet-era salad famously nicknamed “herring under a fur coat”) plus a beef Stroganoff, rich but not swimming in cream, that rewired my ideas of the dish.
The sometimes out-of-body experience of returning to restaurants as we continue to navigate a pandemic leaves the sweet moments extra vivid in my memory. I’m thinking of glancing up at the Frida Kahlo mural above me at Nativo in Highland Park where I polished off a chile relleno, all lightness and balance, in about six bites. And the pleasure Jenn and I took together at the interwoven Brazilian and Italian flavors at Nossa in Los Feliz (surprise hit of the night: chicken lasagna). And laughing over the wit of the purple “jelly corn” at Chifa in Eagle Rock, molded into the shape of a cob, sprinkled with real corn nibs for chewy contrast and finished with a sanguine syrup made of the traditional Peruvian corn-based drink chicha morada.
There’s a whole lot more. Please check it out.
Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.
Some of our favorite new L.A. restaurants for outdoor dining
Just over 50% of Californians are at least partially vaccinated, and COVID-19 cases across the state have decreased nearly 13% in the last week alone. Los Angeles entered the yellow reopening tier early this month. Dining out has returned in force. Tasting-menu restaurants are suddenly booked out two months in advance. The noontime lines again trail from nearly every truck serving tacos and mariscos along Olympic Boulevard in Boyle Heights.
Within this framework, columnist Jenn Harris and I compiled a springtime guide highlighting outdoor dining. Restaurants are welcoming customers back inside dining rooms with increased capacities for some people takeout remains the most comfortable, safest option. Emphasizing restaurants with outside spaces felt like the soundest focus for us.
Enjoying this newsletter? Consider subscribing to the Los Angeles Times
Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most. Become a subscriber.
It also made sense to approach our spring roundup as an analogue to the annual L.A. Times 101. Dozens of the defining restaurants listed in that project offer outdoor dining, so for this guide, we focused on new places across the L.A. Metro area as well as the occasional under-the-radar favorite — 3-year-old Kalinka in Glendale, for example, which some Russian friends suggested. Four of us ordered a spread of zakuski (pickled vegetables, pelmeni, dilled veal tongue and the Soviet-era salad famously nicknamed “herring under a fur coat”) plus a beef Stroganoff, rich but not swimming in cream, that rewired my ideas of the dish.
The sometimes out-of-body experience of returning to restaurants as we continue to navigate a pandemic leaves the sweet moments extra vivid in my memory. I’m thinking of glancing up at the Frida Kahlo mural above me at Nativo in Highland Park where I polished off a chile relleno, all lightness and balance, in about six bites. And the pleasure Jenn and I took together at the interwoven Brazilian and Italian flavors at Nossa in Los Feliz (surprise hit of the night: chicken lasagna). And laughing over the wit of the purple “jelly corn” at Chifa in Eagle Rock, molded into the shape of a cob, sprinkled with real corn nibs for chewy contrast and finished with a sanguine syrup made of the traditional Peruvian corn-based drink chicha morada.
There’s a whole lot more. Please check it out.
Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.
Some of our favorite new L.A. restaurants for outdoor dining
Just over 50% of Californians are at least partially vaccinated, and COVID-19 cases across the state have decreased nearly 13% in the last week alone. Los Angeles entered the yellow reopening tier early this month. Dining out has returned in force. Tasting-menu restaurants are suddenly booked out two months in advance. The noontime lines again trail from nearly every truck serving tacos and mariscos along Olympic Boulevard in Boyle Heights.
Within this framework, columnist Jenn Harris and I compiled a springtime guide highlighting outdoor dining. Restaurants are welcoming customers back inside dining rooms with increased capacities for some people takeout remains the most comfortable, safest option. Emphasizing restaurants with outside spaces felt like the soundest focus for us.
Enjoying this newsletter? Consider subscribing to the Los Angeles Times
Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most. Become a subscriber.
It also made sense to approach our spring roundup as an analogue to the annual L.A. Times 101. Dozens of the defining restaurants listed in that project offer outdoor dining, so for this guide, we focused on new places across the L.A. Metro area as well as the occasional under-the-radar favorite — 3-year-old Kalinka in Glendale, for example, which some Russian friends suggested. Four of us ordered a spread of zakuski (pickled vegetables, pelmeni, dilled veal tongue and the Soviet-era salad famously nicknamed “herring under a fur coat”) plus a beef Stroganoff, rich but not swimming in cream, that rewired my ideas of the dish.
The sometimes out-of-body experience of returning to restaurants as we continue to navigate a pandemic leaves the sweet moments extra vivid in my memory. I’m thinking of glancing up at the Frida Kahlo mural above me at Nativo in Highland Park where I polished off a chile relleno, all lightness and balance, in about six bites. And the pleasure Jenn and I took together at the interwoven Brazilian and Italian flavors at Nossa in Los Feliz (surprise hit of the night: chicken lasagna). And laughing over the wit of the purple “jelly corn” at Chifa in Eagle Rock, molded into the shape of a cob, sprinkled with real corn nibs for chewy contrast and finished with a sanguine syrup made of the traditional Peruvian corn-based drink chicha morada.
There’s a whole lot more. Please check it out.
Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.
Some of our favorite new L.A. restaurants for outdoor dining
Just over 50% of Californians are at least partially vaccinated, and COVID-19 cases across the state have decreased nearly 13% in the last week alone. Los Angeles entered the yellow reopening tier early this month. Dining out has returned in force. Tasting-menu restaurants are suddenly booked out two months in advance. The noontime lines again trail from nearly every truck serving tacos and mariscos along Olympic Boulevard in Boyle Heights.
Within this framework, columnist Jenn Harris and I compiled a springtime guide highlighting outdoor dining. Restaurants are welcoming customers back inside dining rooms with increased capacities for some people takeout remains the most comfortable, safest option. Emphasizing restaurants with outside spaces felt like the soundest focus for us.
Enjoying this newsletter? Consider subscribing to the Los Angeles Times
Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most. Become a subscriber.
It also made sense to approach our spring roundup as an analogue to the annual L.A. Times 101. Dozens of the defining restaurants listed in that project offer outdoor dining, so for this guide, we focused on new places across the L.A. Metro area as well as the occasional under-the-radar favorite — 3-year-old Kalinka in Glendale, for example, which some Russian friends suggested. Four of us ordered a spread of zakuski (pickled vegetables, pelmeni, dilled veal tongue and the Soviet-era salad famously nicknamed “herring under a fur coat”) plus a beef Stroganoff, rich but not swimming in cream, that rewired my ideas of the dish.
The sometimes out-of-body experience of returning to restaurants as we continue to navigate a pandemic leaves the sweet moments extra vivid in my memory. I’m thinking of glancing up at the Frida Kahlo mural above me at Nativo in Highland Park where I polished off a chile relleno, all lightness and balance, in about six bites. And the pleasure Jenn and I took together at the interwoven Brazilian and Italian flavors at Nossa in Los Feliz (surprise hit of the night: chicken lasagna). And laughing over the wit of the purple “jelly corn” at Chifa in Eagle Rock, molded into the shape of a cob, sprinkled with real corn nibs for chewy contrast and finished with a sanguine syrup made of the traditional Peruvian corn-based drink chicha morada.
There’s a whole lot more. Please check it out.
Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.
Some of our favorite new L.A. restaurants for outdoor dining
Just over 50% of Californians are at least partially vaccinated, and COVID-19 cases across the state have decreased nearly 13% in the last week alone. Los Angeles entered the yellow reopening tier early this month. Dining out has returned in force. Tasting-menu restaurants are suddenly booked out two months in advance. The noontime lines again trail from nearly every truck serving tacos and mariscos along Olympic Boulevard in Boyle Heights.
Within this framework, columnist Jenn Harris and I compiled a springtime guide highlighting outdoor dining. Restaurants are welcoming customers back inside dining rooms with increased capacities for some people takeout remains the most comfortable, safest option. Emphasizing restaurants with outside spaces felt like the soundest focus for us.
Enjoying this newsletter? Consider subscribing to the Los Angeles Times
Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most. Become a subscriber.
It also made sense to approach our spring roundup as an analogue to the annual L.A. Times 101. Dozens of the defining restaurants listed in that project offer outdoor dining, so for this guide, we focused on new places across the L.A. Metro area as well as the occasional under-the-radar favorite — 3-year-old Kalinka in Glendale, for example, which some Russian friends suggested. Four of us ordered a spread of zakuski (pickled vegetables, pelmeni, dilled veal tongue and the Soviet-era salad famously nicknamed “herring under a fur coat”) plus a beef Stroganoff, rich but not swimming in cream, that rewired my ideas of the dish.
The sometimes out-of-body experience of returning to restaurants as we continue to navigate a pandemic leaves the sweet moments extra vivid in my memory. I’m thinking of glancing up at the Frida Kahlo mural above me at Nativo in Highland Park where I polished off a chile relleno, all lightness and balance, in about six bites. And the pleasure Jenn and I took together at the interwoven Brazilian and Italian flavors at Nossa in Los Feliz (surprise hit of the night: chicken lasagna). And laughing over the wit of the purple “jelly corn” at Chifa in Eagle Rock, molded into the shape of a cob, sprinkled with real corn nibs for chewy contrast and finished with a sanguine syrup made of the traditional Peruvian corn-based drink chicha morada.
There’s a whole lot more. Please check it out.
Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.
Some of our favorite new L.A. restaurants for outdoor dining
Just over 50% of Californians are at least partially vaccinated, and COVID-19 cases across the state have decreased nearly 13% in the last week alone. Los Angeles entered the yellow reopening tier early this month. Dining out has returned in force. Tasting-menu restaurants are suddenly booked out two months in advance. The noontime lines again trail from nearly every truck serving tacos and mariscos along Olympic Boulevard in Boyle Heights.
Within this framework, columnist Jenn Harris and I compiled a springtime guide highlighting outdoor dining. Restaurants are welcoming customers back inside dining rooms with increased capacities for some people takeout remains the most comfortable, safest option. Emphasizing restaurants with outside spaces felt like the soundest focus for us.
Enjoying this newsletter? Consider subscribing to the Los Angeles Times
Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most. Become a subscriber.
It also made sense to approach our spring roundup as an analogue to the annual L.A. Times 101. Dozens of the defining restaurants listed in that project offer outdoor dining, so for this guide, we focused on new places across the L.A. Metro area as well as the occasional under-the-radar favorite — 3-year-old Kalinka in Glendale, for example, which some Russian friends suggested. Four of us ordered a spread of zakuski (pickled vegetables, pelmeni, dilled veal tongue and the Soviet-era salad famously nicknamed “herring under a fur coat”) plus a beef Stroganoff, rich but not swimming in cream, that rewired my ideas of the dish.
The sometimes out-of-body experience of returning to restaurants as we continue to navigate a pandemic leaves the sweet moments extra vivid in my memory. I’m thinking of glancing up at the Frida Kahlo mural above me at Nativo in Highland Park where I polished off a chile relleno, all lightness and balance, in about six bites. And the pleasure Jenn and I took together at the interwoven Brazilian and Italian flavors at Nossa in Los Feliz (surprise hit of the night: chicken lasagna). And laughing over the wit of the purple “jelly corn” at Chifa in Eagle Rock, molded into the shape of a cob, sprinkled with real corn nibs for chewy contrast and finished with a sanguine syrup made of the traditional Peruvian corn-based drink chicha morada.
There’s a whole lot more. Please check it out.
Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.
Some of our favorite new L.A. restaurants for outdoor dining
Just over 50% of Californians are at least partially vaccinated, and COVID-19 cases across the state have decreased nearly 13% in the last week alone. Los Angeles entered the yellow reopening tier early this month. Dining out has returned in force. Tasting-menu restaurants are suddenly booked out two months in advance. The noontime lines again trail from nearly every truck serving tacos and mariscos along Olympic Boulevard in Boyle Heights.
Within this framework, columnist Jenn Harris and I compiled a springtime guide highlighting outdoor dining. Restaurants are welcoming customers back inside dining rooms with increased capacities for some people takeout remains the most comfortable, safest option. Emphasizing restaurants with outside spaces felt like the soundest focus for us.
Enjoying this newsletter? Consider subscribing to the Los Angeles Times
Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most. Become a subscriber.
It also made sense to approach our spring roundup as an analogue to the annual L.A. Times 101. Dozens of the defining restaurants listed in that project offer outdoor dining, so for this guide, we focused on new places across the L.A. Metro area as well as the occasional under-the-radar favorite — 3-year-old Kalinka in Glendale, for example, which some Russian friends suggested. Four of us ordered a spread of zakuski (pickled vegetables, pelmeni, dilled veal tongue and the Soviet-era salad famously nicknamed “herring under a fur coat”) plus a beef Stroganoff, rich but not swimming in cream, that rewired my ideas of the dish.
The sometimes out-of-body experience of returning to restaurants as we continue to navigate a pandemic leaves the sweet moments extra vivid in my memory. I’m thinking of glancing up at the Frida Kahlo mural above me at Nativo in Highland Park where I polished off a chile relleno, all lightness and balance, in about six bites. And the pleasure Jenn and I took together at the interwoven Brazilian and Italian flavors at Nossa in Los Feliz (surprise hit of the night: chicken lasagna). And laughing over the wit of the purple “jelly corn” at Chifa in Eagle Rock, molded into the shape of a cob, sprinkled with real corn nibs for chewy contrast and finished with a sanguine syrup made of the traditional Peruvian corn-based drink chicha morada.
There’s a whole lot more. Please check it out.
Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.
Some of our favorite new L.A. restaurants for outdoor dining
Just over 50% of Californians are at least partially vaccinated, and COVID-19 cases across the state have decreased nearly 13% in the last week alone. Los Angeles entered the yellow reopening tier early this month. Dining out has returned in force. Tasting-menu restaurants are suddenly booked out two months in advance. The noontime lines again trail from nearly every truck serving tacos and mariscos along Olympic Boulevard in Boyle Heights.
Within this framework, columnist Jenn Harris and I compiled a springtime guide highlighting outdoor dining. Restaurants are welcoming customers back inside dining rooms with increased capacities for some people takeout remains the most comfortable, safest option. Emphasizing restaurants with outside spaces felt like the soundest focus for us.
Enjoying this newsletter? Consider subscribing to the Los Angeles Times
Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most. Become a subscriber.
It also made sense to approach our spring roundup as an analogue to the annual L.A. Times 101. Dozens of the defining restaurants listed in that project offer outdoor dining, so for this guide, we focused on new places across the L.A. Metro area as well as the occasional under-the-radar favorite — 3-year-old Kalinka in Glendale, for example, which some Russian friends suggested. Four of us ordered a spread of zakuski (pickled vegetables, pelmeni, dilled veal tongue and the Soviet-era salad famously nicknamed “herring under a fur coat”) plus a beef Stroganoff, rich but not swimming in cream, that rewired my ideas of the dish.
The sometimes out-of-body experience of returning to restaurants as we continue to navigate a pandemic leaves the sweet moments extra vivid in my memory. I’m thinking of glancing up at the Frida Kahlo mural above me at Nativo in Highland Park where I polished off a chile relleno, all lightness and balance, in about six bites. And the pleasure Jenn and I took together at the interwoven Brazilian and Italian flavors at Nossa in Los Feliz (surprise hit of the night: chicken lasagna). And laughing over the wit of the purple “jelly corn” at Chifa in Eagle Rock, molded into the shape of a cob, sprinkled with real corn nibs for chewy contrast and finished with a sanguine syrup made of the traditional Peruvian corn-based drink chicha morada.
There’s a whole lot more. Please check it out.
Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.
Some of our favorite new L.A. restaurants for outdoor dining
Just over 50% of Californians are at least partially vaccinated, and COVID-19 cases across the state have decreased nearly 13% in the last week alone. Los Angeles entered the yellow reopening tier early this month. Dining out has returned in force. Tasting-menu restaurants are suddenly booked out two months in advance. The noontime lines again trail from nearly every truck serving tacos and mariscos along Olympic Boulevard in Boyle Heights.
Within this framework, columnist Jenn Harris and I compiled a springtime guide highlighting outdoor dining. Restaurants are welcoming customers back inside dining rooms with increased capacities for some people takeout remains the most comfortable, safest option. Emphasizing restaurants with outside spaces felt like the soundest focus for us.
Enjoying this newsletter? Consider subscribing to the Los Angeles Times
Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most. Become a subscriber.
It also made sense to approach our spring roundup as an analogue to the annual L.A. Times 101. Dozens of the defining restaurants listed in that project offer outdoor dining, so for this guide, we focused on new places across the L.A. Metro area as well as the occasional under-the-radar favorite — 3-year-old Kalinka in Glendale, for example, which some Russian friends suggested. Four of us ordered a spread of zakuski (pickled vegetables, pelmeni, dilled veal tongue and the Soviet-era salad famously nicknamed “herring under a fur coat”) plus a beef Stroganoff, rich but not swimming in cream, that rewired my ideas of the dish.
The sometimes out-of-body experience of returning to restaurants as we continue to navigate a pandemic leaves the sweet moments extra vivid in my memory. I’m thinking of glancing up at the Frida Kahlo mural above me at Nativo in Highland Park where I polished off a chile relleno, all lightness and balance, in about six bites. And the pleasure Jenn and I took together at the interwoven Brazilian and Italian flavors at Nossa in Los Feliz (surprise hit of the night: chicken lasagna). And laughing over the wit of the purple “jelly corn” at Chifa in Eagle Rock, molded into the shape of a cob, sprinkled with real corn nibs for chewy contrast and finished with a sanguine syrup made of the traditional Peruvian corn-based drink chicha morada.
There’s a whole lot more. Please check it out.
Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.
Some of our favorite new L.A. restaurants for outdoor dining
Just over 50% of Californians are at least partially vaccinated, and COVID-19 cases across the state have decreased nearly 13% in the last week alone. Los Angeles entered the yellow reopening tier early this month. Dining out has returned in force. Tasting-menu restaurants are suddenly booked out two months in advance. The noontime lines again trail from nearly every truck serving tacos and mariscos along Olympic Boulevard in Boyle Heights.
Within this framework, columnist Jenn Harris and I compiled a springtime guide highlighting outdoor dining. Restaurants are welcoming customers back inside dining rooms with increased capacities for some people takeout remains the most comfortable, safest option. Emphasizing restaurants with outside spaces felt like the soundest focus for us.
Enjoying this newsletter? Consider subscribing to the Los Angeles Times
Your support helps us deliver the news that matters most. Become a subscriber.
It also made sense to approach our spring roundup as an analogue to the annual L.A. Times 101. Dozens of the defining restaurants listed in that project offer outdoor dining, so for this guide, we focused on new places across the L.A. Metro area as well as the occasional under-the-radar favorite — 3-year-old Kalinka in Glendale, for example, which some Russian friends suggested. Four of us ordered a spread of zakuski (pickled vegetables, pelmeni, dilled veal tongue and the Soviet-era salad famously nicknamed “herring under a fur coat”) plus a beef Stroganoff, rich but not swimming in cream, that rewired my ideas of the dish.
The sometimes out-of-body experience of returning to restaurants as we continue to navigate a pandemic leaves the sweet moments extra vivid in my memory. I’m thinking of glancing up at the Frida Kahlo mural above me at Nativo in Highland Park where I polished off a chile relleno, all lightness and balance, in about six bites. And the pleasure Jenn and I took together at the interwoven Brazilian and Italian flavors at Nossa in Los Feliz (surprise hit of the night: chicken lasagna). And laughing over the wit of the purple “jelly corn” at Chifa in Eagle Rock, molded into the shape of a cob, sprinkled with real corn nibs for chewy contrast and finished with a sanguine syrup made of the traditional Peruvian corn-based drink chicha morada.
There’s a whole lot more. Please check it out.
Get our weekly Tasting Notes newsletter for reviews, news and more.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.